Kumano Kodo
Japan
Distance/Duration84 km, 5 Days
About
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Features
The Kumano Kodo Trail is a pilgrimage route that leads to the Kumano Sanzan (Three Grand Shrines of Kumano), which are the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine, and Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine. The trail leads to Koyasan, the head temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, Omine, an important training center for Shugendo, and the Ise-jingu Shrine, known as the “spiritual home of the Japanese.” The steepest of the routes is the Kohechi. The Kohechi is the shortest path passing through both the Koyasan and Kumano Sanzan sacred sites. The route traverses the Kii Peninsula from north to south, passing three mountain passes over 1,000 m in elevation. The main route "Nakahechi," which connects the three Kumano shrines, is said to have been walked by aristocrats in the Heian period (794-1185).
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History
The area around Kumano was a place of nature worship mentioned in the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), and Kumano worship flourished around Kumano Sanzan, the largest sacred site in Japan. For more than 1,000 years, the paths started by the imperial family and aristocrats in the Heian period (794-1185) were passed down to the samurai and common people, who can still walk along them in the same way today. It is a rare place where one can feel the passage of time, and its value can be seen in the fact that it is the only pilgrimage route registered as a World Heritage Site, with the exception of the Santiago Pilgrimage Route.
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Nature
Large cedar and cypress trees are associated with the Kumano Kodo. These evergreen trees, whose leaves do not fall even in winter, cover the ancient road with greenery throughout the year. The area where the ancient road is located was once called Kii-no-kuni (Kii Province). There are various theories, but it is believed that the name "Kii-no-kuni" is a corruption of "Ki-no-kuni" (“land of trees”) because of the abundant rainfall and forests that covered the area. The abundance of water is symbolized by the Nachi Falls. The 133-meter drop is one of the three most famous waterfalls in Japan, and the spectacular sight of it cascading down the mountain is simply breathtaking.
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The Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route that has hosted people from all walks of life for over 1,000 years. It was also the first road to be registered as a World Heritage Site in Japan. The area around Kumano was a place of nature worship mentioned in the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan). In Buddhism, the mountains surrounded by deep nature were regarded as the "Pure Land" of Amida Nyorai and Kannon Bosatsu, and flourished as a place for ascetic practices. Against this background, the Kumano Sanzan (Three Grand Shrines of Kumano) were born, and pilgrimages to the mountains began to be made. The ancient pilgrimage routes taken by the imperial family and aristocrats were so long that they were likened to "ant pilgrimages to Kumano," and the processions were endless. Because of its powerful attraction, it has inspired people to open many pilgrimage routes from all over the country. The most famous is Nakahechi, which is registered as a World Heritage Site in the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” It is said that the greatest number of pilgrims walked this road from Tanabe to Kumano Hongu. Retired Emperor Gotoba, Fujiwara no Teika, and Izumi Shikibu, who are famous in Japanese history, reportedly visited Kumano Hongu by following the steep road, which became the official pilgrimage route for imperial visits to Kumano walked by the emperor. At that time, the practice had a stronger mountain asceticism than today, and people purified their bodies and minds by bathing in water and offering prayers to purify the impurities of this world. The Tonda River (Iwata River) that runs through the present-day section from Inabane-oji to Takijiri-oji was considered a sanctuary, and "mizugori" (purification of impurities by repeatedly crossing this river and bathing in cold water) was performed. The fact that shrines are located on both banks of the river is a remnant of this practice. Another route to Takijiri-oji is the "Shiomi-Toge Pass," which passes through steep climbs and descents. The path was opened in modern times, and the stone pavements and ruins of teahouses that can be seen here and there tell the history of the past. From Takijiri-oji, the path leads to the sacred area of Kumano Sanzan. The trail continues up and down with a 600-meter difference in elevation to the highest point, the Kamitawa teahouse ruins, and the severe ups and downs will make you realize that this is a path of ascetic training. At the end of the harsh trek awaits "Hatsushinmon-oji," the entrance to the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine. The 7 km from here to the shrine is the highlight of the journey. After paying homage to "Mizuon-oji" and "Fushin-oji," you will finally arrive at the Taisha Shrine. By retracing the path of the ancients and remembering the Kumano pilgrimage of the past, trekkers are surely able to relive the spirituality of the Kumano pilgrimage. *Please check local websites for the latest information.